Transparency weaving

Joanne Hall, instructor (March 16–17, 2024)

Märta Måås Fjetterström created hangings in the technique we now call “transparencies.” She developed the technique more than 100 years ago to make colorful wall hangings more quickly than when woven in tapestry.

Similar techniques for upholstery and pillows were developed by the textile school in Stockholm, where it is called the HV technique, after the name of the school, Handarbetets Vänner. Transparencies have also been popular in Finland.

Sometimes called simplified tapestry, transparencies are woven with a tabby to create a stable structure using laid-in colors that create images and patterns. They are usually woven with a linen warp and tabby to create a crisp texture. The laid-in colors can be woven in either linen or wool. Since we are using small looms, we will use a plied linen warp.

We began by weaving a sample to become familiar with the weaving sequence and with handling the laid-in linen. We then made our own cartoons in class by choosing a pattern or designing our own. We began weaving the designs in class and will complete them at home.